Before it joined Brno in 1919, Židenice had been the biggest village of the Austrian empire. Some of its streets still look like a neat hamlet, although the quarter lies no further than 5 tram stops from the main train station.
Židenice is located on the eastern bank of Svitava river, roughly between Zábrdovice and Vinohrady. The problem with a guide to Židenice is that the quarter is quite big and there are both places to avoid and the best places to live in Brno.
Another formerly independent village Juliánov is a part of Židenice today; even the locals don’t know where Židenice ends and Juliánov begins, so I will call the whole quarter Židenice, which is also its official name.
Bílá hora park in April
Pros
- Unique genius loci.
- Low rents and good quality/price ratio of flats.
- Close to centre.
- If there is a “melting pot” in Brno, it’s Židenice. Bohemians, Gypsies, Ukrainian workers, Indians, Italians and many Vietnamese businessmen live there and work together.
Cons
- Sleepy atmosphere, as the place is inhabited mostly by old people.
- Crime issues on some streets (read on).
- In next 10 years the railway tracks going through Židenice will be extended. Nearby streets may suffer from higher levels of noise and vibrations.
Jewish cemetery
Good places
- Residential areas around Filipínského st. and Viniční st. — both built in the 1920s, with expensive villas and nice apartment houses.
- Blocks of flats around Došlíkova st., a quiet place near nature and with a great view over the city.
Bad places
- Dirty alleys around Životského st.
- Markéty Kuncové st. — slightly terrorized by bilkers displaced from Cejl.
- Otakara Ševčíka st. and Gajdošova st. — 30,000 cars ride trough these roads every day, so prepare for noise and dust.
Best restaurants
- I love indian restaurant Goa, with reasonable prices, tasty meals and two friendly Indian fellows serving the guests.
- Nearby café Zastávka is also recommendable, give a try to their baguettes.
- Oro Caffé at Táborská st. is serving great pizza every Friday.
Shopping
- There is a supermarket Kaufland at Bubeníčkova st. (it used to be so nice post-industrial place…) and smaller markets at Stará Osada sq. (Albert) and Bělohorská st. (Tesco). Shopping can be done even until late hours in several small shops called “Večerka” (“evening shop”).
- For great but very cheap wine, try wine shop Svoboda at Táborská st. (bring your own bottle try Veltliner from Rakvice village for CZK 44/liter).
Chapel at Táborská st.
Insider’s tips
I lived in Židenice from 1997 to 2008, so I know a lot about the quarter:
- Parks Akátky and Bílá hora are perfect for dating or just walking with your friends. Bílá hora offers a nice view over the town. Its top is decorated with a monument of socialist workers, who were having demonstrations at the place in the late 19th century, demanding social advantages they have today.
- There are several churches in Židenice, both catholic and protestant, and also a nice cemetery (at Balbínova st.), so if you are looking for places to pray or meditate, try it there.
- You can find the house where Bohumil Hrabal was born at the top of Balbínova st. Bohumil Hrabal (1914-1997) was one of the most popular Czech writers, whose novel “Closely watched trains” was adapted in an Oscar-winning-movie in 1967.
- The only Jewish cemetery in Brno is located in Židenice (tram stop “Židovský hřbitov”).
As I wrote before, it’s impossible to judge whole Židenice. If you are about to buy or rent an apartment there, explore nearby streets in day and in night to get a good opinion. Although I don’t live there anymore, Židenice is a life-long love affair in my case…
